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Alpine Club of Pakistan is the National Club of Mountaineering in Pakistan. The Club is working for the promotion of Mountaineering and Mountain related activities in whole Pakistan.For this purpose, ACP has a network of branches in major cities of Pakistan.
ACP Faisalabad branch is a newly established branch, organised and launched first Mountaineering Expedition form the Manchesster of Pakistan to a mountain in Shamshal Valley under the supervision of the head office of Alpine Club of Pakistan.
The selected peak was Mt. Manglik Sar (6050m). This peak is situated near Shamshal Pass in Shamshal Valley, Hunza, Northern Areas of Pakistan.
The leader of the team was Mr. Muhammad shahid saleem, summiter of firsrt Pakistan's Winter Expedition to Mt. Pir Peak (6363m) in Shamshal, qualified mountaineering instructor by Mountain Wilderness International and ACP Coordinator in Faisalabad.
Other members of the team were Mr. Zeeshan Ahmad, Mr. Muhammad Abduhr, Mr. Muhammad Abid, Mr. Muhammad Ahsan and Mr. Nasir Mehmood all from Faisalabad. Mr. Shambi Khan joined expedition as supervisor and Mr. Rahmat Ullah and Mr. Bakhtawar Shah as team member from Shamshal Valley.
Hi-Tec Lubricant
(Imoprters of Zic Mobil Oil) partly sponsored this expedition. The departure date from Rawlpindi was 12 June, 1999. The duration of the expedition was 17 days.
The expedition reached Passu on 14 June,1999. After two hours jeep travel and 3 days trek, we reached in beautiful village of Shamshal. We stayed in Shamshal at Numberdar Mr. Baig Dullat House.
From Shamshal, our base camp (Shujerab) was at a distance of 6 stages. Next day, on 18 June,1999, we started our journey and reached Furzin. Next day, we reached Arbab Purian through Purian Sar. On 3rd day, we reached at base camp named Shujerab. The height of Shujerab is 4550m above sea level.
Weather was clear during first 2 days trek but suddenly changed in last day to base camp. There was heavy snowfall on base camp (Shujerab). Next day weather remains in bad condition.
Team supervisor Shambi Khan and team leader Muhammad Shahid saleem to attack on peak as soon as weather clear.
On 22 June, 1999, early in the morning, weather turned to clear and we decided to avail the chance of clear weather. At 5 am, we took our climbing Ruck Sacks with necessary equipments and food. We started our journey to Summit after adopting Alpine style. Team supervisor Shambi Khan, team leader Shahid Saleem, Rahmat Ullah and Bakhtawar Shah were in Summit party.
Manglik Sar was fully covered with heavy snow from bottom to top. We roped up and starts climbing from the west ridge of the peak. After crossing steep slopes , we reached near the peak. We probed and crossed three big hidden crevasses just near the top of the peak.
At 1230 hours Shambi Khan , Shahid , Bakatawar & Rahamat Ullah were at the top of the peak after more than seven hous hard climb. We hosited Pakistani Flagg at the peakand Prayto God. We were seeingg everywhere big mountains of Karakoram range , The mighty K2, G1, G2, Shashpar, Kunyang Kish, Destigal Sar, Yezgil Dom and many other peaks.
After taking photographs , slides and making video film , we decided to come back to basecamp. Our stay at peak was 30 minutes. We reached basecamp safely after five hours decending. We reached back Rawalpindi by the same route on June 26th, 1999.
Manglik Sar expedition was over
From
Muhammad Shahid Saleem
Coordinator
Alpine Club Of Pakistan
(Faisalabad Branch
House No. P-438 St No.3
Main Bazar MughalPura
Sheikhupura Road
Faisalabad - PAKISTAN
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